The bulging orange-streaked rind suggests Époisses from France, but Cossanella, newly imported by Murray’s Cheese Shop, is more delicate. It’s a product of the Alta Langa in the Piedmont region of Italy, an area known for top-flight wines and cheeses like La Tur and Robiola. Cossanella’s rind is washed with annatto — a condiment used for coloring made from the seeds of the achiote tree — providing its rusty hue. The ivory interior has subtle hints of mushroom and verbena, with a satin sheen and the consistency of soft serve. It’s a delectable partner for one of the Alta Langa’s spumantes.
Cossanella, $39 a pound (6-ounce cheese), Murray’s Cheese Shop, murrayscheese.com.